The kiln is in a metal box. The floor of the container is just a sheet metal pan. It is a flat sheet with 1" breaks" -i.e, 90 degree bends- on all edges. It is like any pan; a bottom with four edges folded up. The left, back, and right sides of my kontainer are all one piece of sheet metal. They have slight X folds in them to stiffen the metal. The door side of the kontainer is added on and joined with "pittsburgh" joints and rivets. The bottom is joined to the body with an s-cleat, a connection strip for sheet metal pictured in the last- #4- detail. The s-cleat allows you to join side to bottom very easily. I have put a layer of well spaced fire brick under the floor of the kontainer. This is to let air circulate under the box and save wear and tear on the floor of my studio. And I have my kiln up on the traditional kiln stand that is about 6" tall. All together, the kiln is elevated more than usual. I also have a 4" collar extension on the body of my kiln. The long and short of it is that it is difficult to reach the bottom of my kiln. The kontainer must be designed so the door and the top rail of the door jam is removable. You follow that?
I suggest that you use barrel hinges on on the kontainer door. Barrel hinges allow you to simply lift the door to remove it from the body of the kontainer. Some people call them sex hinges for the obvious male/female fit.
The door itself is designed to close on to AND into the front opening of the container. The door is 3D. This is so that when you close and latch the door shut, part of the door goes into the opening forcing the entire structure to stiffen and square up.
Again, notice every metal edge has a return on it for safety.
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